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Our journey to Raja Ampat: Was it worth it?

The prospect of travelling to Raja Ampat filled me with dread, but it was Nicks dream destination and he had it firmly on our itinerary. No amount of trying to convince him otherwise would change that. Our flights were booked, and it had the majority share of our 60 day visa for Indonesia. 34 days to be exact. In my heart I never really wanted to go... but it’s always the things you dread most that end up being the best, right?

We were about to embark on a big backpacking adventure, so I knew very well that my life was about to do a complete 180. I had no problem with any other destination on our itinerary, but there was something about Raja Ampat which made me nervous. I went with an uncertain heart, wondering whether the long journey to Raja Ampat was going to be worth it?

Being naturally risk-adverse I have a habit of leaning towards safety wherever possible. Nick on the contrary, wants to push things that bit further.  Our entire trip meant I had to step out of my comfort zone. I’d already agreed to that by taking a leap of faith and quitting my job to go travelling.

Raja Ampat sounded amazing, that was undeniable. It was obvious why Nick wanted to go and I knew that I should want to go… it just seemed so wild, and so very far away.

A very long journey to Raja Ampat

From London, the journey to Raja Ampat would take three days. It is located in West Papua, the other half of New Guinea. Thankfully we’d already be in Indonesia and would be flying in from Manado in North Sulawesi, which isn’t really that far, but it would still cost us an entire day of travel.

London to Raja Ampat Map
From London the journey to Raja Ampat takes 3 days

Landing in the city of Sorong, we’d take a 2.5 hour ferry to the port of Waisai, a tiny dot of a town. Then we would be transported by long boat out to our homestay on Gam island. All in all it would be quite the adventure!

I couldn’t believe we were actually going!

After booking our flights and selecting our homestays back in London, reality set in. Scrolling through pictures on the train into work every day, desperately watching YouTube and reading Stay Raja Ampat I attempted to seek peace in first hand experience.

It is easy enough admiring pictures of rustic beach bungalows and pristine waters from the comfort of your phone. But reality is something else entirely, and one day in the not so distant future, I would be living in one of those bungalows, for at least a month. It was a very surreal thought.

So, why didn’t I want to go to Raja Ampat?

Firstly it would be the furthest I’d ever been from home. Not that I’m scared of travelling to distant places, it’s just that Raja Ampat is so far removed from any form of civilisation. This left me concerned for our safety, as Raja Ampat is known to be wild and potentially dangerous: There is a genuine risk of Malaria, being eaten by a saltwater crocodile (yes this is a fact!) sharks, venemous snakes, spiders, jellyfish, skin conditions, water contamination, a general lack of hygiene…

Raja Ampat Remote Karst islands Beser Bay shipwreck
The wilderness is calling: but was Raja Ampat just too remote for me?

Our simple accommodation would consist of nothing more than a palm leaf bungalow, a mattress on the floor and a mosquito net. The bathroom situation being equally as basic. And I’d never even been camping before…

Nick had a map of all the best snorkel spots. As the budget master, I knew he would expect us to reach these spots by physically snorkelling or hiking to save money instead of taking boat trips. Aside from all the crocs and sharks, I’d read about the currents in Raja Ampat and knew they could be fierce. I was worried about our distance from other human life (and potential help if we needed it) while out on snorkelling expeditions.

Raja Ampat is mostly off grid

This would mean very little, or no phone signal or internet. I didn’t mind having a digital detox for a few days but what if there was an emergency, how would we contact anyone? God forbid if we needed a hospital, it would probably take so long to get there I feared we’d die en-route!

We were going to be on a remote island in Raja Ampat for at least a month. I couldn’t bare the thought of not being able to contact my family for that long. I needed to let them know we were safe, and this caused me a great deal of stress.

Raja Ampat Maiyanfun Seafans homestay village
This is what civilisation looks like in Raja Ampat: Simple villages on stilts over water

It seemed to me that only the most intrepid travellers, adventurers and experienced divers would go as far as a Raja Ampat. And there we were, just a couple of Londoners (read amateur backpackers) about to go off grid and get all Bear Grylls.

I’d always dreamt of being stranded on a desert island, but was this just a bit too extreme for me? Was the journey to Raja Ampat really going to be worth all its effort? I had to step out in faith and trust that Nick had chosen this place for a reason.

My mini breakdown in Manado

We were 3 weeks into our backpacking trip and currently in Manado, stocking up on supplies ahead of our next stop, my nemesis: Raja Ampat.

Our journey had already taken us to some pretty remote places such as Labuan Bajo and Bunaken National Park. However I was still sick with worry about our impending location so buying a local SIM card was a top priority for me. If I had some form of contact with the outside world, it would help me deal with the prospect of being so far from civilisation.

It was roasting hot and stressful running around the city trying to get everything sorted. My anxieties came to a head as I mentally struggled with all my overwhelming concerns. In the heat of the moment I blurted out ‘I don’t even want to go to Raja Ampat’ and I meant it.

Arriving in Sorong

Our flight to Sorong was delayed by a few hours. I used this time to call my Mum. It was hard having a conversation over the announcements in the airport, but it felt good to chat as I had no idea when we’d next get the chance to speak. Other than the locals, it was just us and a couple of Canadian divers on our tiny plane.

Sorong Airport was a bit of a shock. The people of West Papua are Melanesian, and share more in common with New Guinea than they do Indonesia. Many of them rarely see Westerners, so all eyes were on us.

Sorong harbour Papuan boys playing on boats
‘Hello Mister, Hello Mister!’

Wheeling our trolley outside, numerous taxi drivers swarmed in on us, they tried to grab our backpacks hoping for business. We were in a distinctly poor part of the world and with stacks of cash (38,000,000 IDR to be exact) hidden in various sections of our bags, I felt quite vulnerable.

Meeting Mr John

Stepping out of our taxi at Sorong harbour, we were approached by a gentleman. ‘Mr Nick, Miss Claire?’ I was so shocked to hear our names! Who was this and how did someone in Sorong know who we were?

With the warmest smile, he introduced himself as ‘Mr John’ – a local guide who was a friend of our homestay host. It was the most unexpected welcome, but it was lovely.

All signs were pointing in the right direction

Guarding the bags while Nick went to the ticket office in Sorong harbour, I sat deep in thought and was worrying about the next leg of the journey. On the wall in front of me was an old poster. As my mind registered, I realised what I had been staring at.

It was an advert for Beser Bay homestay. It was where we were staying!! For months I had been agonising over this place and now it was staring me right in the face. I smiled. It felt like the stars were aligning. First meeting Mr John, and now this. We had to be on the right path. The journey to Raja Ampat just got a bit more exciting…

Goodbye Sorong and civilisation

As we waited for the ferry to leave Sorong for Waisai, we watched it being loaded with less people, and more and more cargo. I spotted just a handful of tourists on board. Noting camouflage gear, walking boots and cameras with some serious lenses, these people looked like a film crew or something from a BBC nature documentary. I felt significantly underdressed in my bright white Birkenstocks.

Sorong harbour cargo Bahari Express Raja Ampat
Our seats were allocated between mountains of boxes and huge bags of rice

Arriving at Waisai, the tiny capital of Raja Ampat

Much like Sorong, we fought our way through a crowd of curious faces at Waisai harbour. Some were holding bits of old cardboard with names written on. I scanned the boards and my heart skipped when I couldn’t see ours. We had to locate our homestay host Anthony, who would be taking us to Beser Bay by the only mode of transport, boat.

Making our way to a small information desk, we paid for our park permits. These permits are required to enter the national park – more information can be found on our Raja Ampat Travel Guide. Anthony appeared wearing a smart batik print shirt with a name badge. So professional… so not what I was expecting! As there are no ATMs on the islands we decided to get even more cash out just to be on the safe side. Waisai is the last place we would have any access to a cash machine, so Anthony and Nick took off into town to find one .

Waisai jetty homestay boat transfer journey to Raja Ampat
We passed some pretty safe looking boats on the floating jetty, none of which were ours!

I was left with Boy, Anthony’s assistant, who helped take our backpacks to our simple mode of transport: a weather-worn longtail  boat, which wobbled as I stepped on board.

Boy took my hand, his firm barefoot grip kept me steady. I settled myself on a makeshift seat, a small plank of wood, no more than a foot above the water. He covered our backpacks with an old sheet of tarp, while I prayed for good weather! Boy spoke little English, but we still managed to have a chat. He had such an endearing nature. I got the feeling that we were going to enjoy staying with these people very much indeed.

Finally on our way to Beser Bay Homestay

Navigating our way out of the port, I sent a quick message to my family, and watched as my phone signal dropped off.  Like a well oiled machine, the captain Patrick took charge of steering while Boy sat up front directing, tapping the side of the boat every time there was driftwood up ahead.

Hugging the coastline of the island of Gam, we passed its steep uninhabited landscape, amass of thick jungle and mangrove forests. Now and then spotting a cluster of rustic bungalows or a tiny village community on the waters edge. There was nothing around except deep emerald water and crazy wild landscape. It was stunning.

Somewhere over the rainbow

We came to a group of small karst islands and in the distance I could see a rainbow. Yet another one of those special little signs for us. Beser Bay must be on the horizon.

Raja Ampat sunset mangrove first West Papua boat
Real life proved how unbelievably remote Raja Ampat was

As we slowed into the bay, Patrick cut off the engine. For the past hour our ears had been pounded by wind and the sound of the boat motor. I’d not really noticed until a deafening silence fell upon us, and a ‘picture perfect paradise’ was unveiled. A bright white beach littered with fallen coconuts, framed by tall swaying palms. This was the epitome of a desert island, of Robinson Crusoe. It was beyond tropical. I was completely speechless, I cried.

Checking-in to paradise

Passing half a dozen wooden bungalows, we drifted towards a larger one joined to the land by a jetty. Boy threw our bags onto its big open deck, gesturing to make our way inside. Assuming this was ‘reception’ we clambered on, expecting Boy and Patrick to follow behind. Instead, they reversed the boat and we were left standing there scratching our heads!

Raja Ampat Beser Bay homestay overwater bungalow
I’ll take the big one at the end please! Our new home couldn’t have been more perfect…

Inside the bungalow there was a small table with a plate of doughnuts on it, a mattress on the floor and a hammock hanging above it. Everything was spotlessly clean. It finally sunk in, this wasn’t the reception at all, this was our home.

We may never want to leave!

Our new home had quite the view. Looking out over the open ocean, the sunset on our first night was without a doubt one of the most impressive skies we had ever laid eyes on. The sea was perfectly still and we watched in amazement as a pod of dolphins swam by on the house reef.

Raja Ampat amazing sunset Beser Bay
With no TV or internet, our only source of entertainment would be the natural wonders around us

How was it that just a few weeks prior I’d been trotting around Mayfair for meetings at Selfridges and flying off to Jewellery trade shows. Worrying about things like my hair and nails? Vanity would not matter out here. All of a sudden I felt so free!

At 7pm a little bell rang. It was dinner time. Boys wife Tina had prepared us a feast of fresh fish. Each plate was carefully laid out and decorated with leaves and flowers. Everything tasted exotic and delicious.

That night we were a bit concerned sleeping in our simple bungalow. The closest I could compare it to was on our private liveaboard in Komodo. Making sure the mosquito net was well tucked in, I shut my eyes and ran the days intrepid journey to Raja Ampat over in my head. I’d dreaded so much about coming here, but could already feel myself falling in love with this place.

Waking in the wilderness

At sunrise we woke to the craziest jungle melody, the tropical birds in the forest burst into song. Somehow Boy noticed we were up and approached our bungalow with a fresh flask of hot water and cakes. Tina is a wonderful baker. These graceful people were so sweet and kind! Their service was far superior to any 5 star resort we had ever stayed in.

Time to get our snorkel on!

Drinking coffee while dangling our legs over the deck, the lagoon beneath us was alive and glistened in the morning light. Colourful box fish, sting rays and baby reef sharks circled in the crystal clear waters beneath our feet.

We had already snorkelled some pretty spectacular reefs in Komodo and Bunaken. However Raja Ampat is the most marine diverse place on the planet and we had some pretty high expectations. Already blown away by what we’d seen above the water, we were so excited to finally see if the underwater world lived up to its hype.

Raja Ampat snorkelling fan coral fish
Now I understood why Nick wanted to come here so much

Thankfully the hype was real… jumping into the warm turquoise sea, we swam out to the drop off to find a pristine reef with an impressive expanse of colourful soft corals and many species of fish which we had never seen before.

Little did we know, this was just the beginning of our love affair with Raja Ampat and our initial 34 day stay would become significantly longer…

Was Raja Ampat worth the journey?

I’ve always been obsessed with tropical places, so in a way, Raja Ampat was like a dream come true. But there were many strings attached to that dream.

The physical journey to Raja Ampat isn’t the easiest but the hardest part for me was the mental journey. In my head I built up such a stigma about the journey itself, and spent so long labouring over these points that I completely forgot about how lucky we were to be travelling there. So when we finally arrived (alive and well!) I felt an overwhelming sense of relief, a release of pent up emotions which I’d been holding onto for so long.

Beser Bay Bungalow
Is Raja Ampat worth the journey? YES!

Raja Ampat is a pure overload for the senses. My anxieties naturally disappeared as I took in the simplicity and beauty of our surroundings. How could anyone not wish to be here? I have never felt so close to nature, and so alive.

Aside from quitting my job to go travelling and learning how to dive, I consider venturing to Raja Ampat as one of my biggest life achievements and can honestly say that it is SO worth the journey!

On reflection

I never would have experienced this incredible place if it weren’t for Nicks persuasiveness, or if he had agreed with my list of concerns and taken Raja Ampat off our itinerary. I fell head over heels in love with Raja Ampat, so much so that we have been back 3 times already, and would go again in a heartbeat.

Thinking of planning a trip to Raja Ampat?

In total we have spent nearly half a year in Raja Ampat, so we totally understand how daunting it can be planning a trip here, especially with such limited information online. That’s why we have created some handy guides to help our fellow travellers get the most out of their adventure!

For more information on travel logistics, accommodation, snorkel and dive advice, plus budget tips and tricks please check out our Raja Ampat Travel Guide.  Our homestay recommendations and detailed reviews for both divers and snorkellers can be found here.

Not sure whether Raja Ampat homestay facilities are for you? We give an honest account of what its really like staying in a traditional Papuan bungalow.

If you have any more questions, please feel free to ask us in the comments below, and don’t forget to subscribe for future posts about Raja Ampat 😀


  1. Hi, I’m also from the UK and planning to go to Raja Ampat, I feel like a chat with you would be beneficial! Can we get in touch?

  2. Claire- I am loving reading your blog about R4. I’m finding a lot of what you say mirrors my own feelings about traveling there, especially the first time. For me, getting there is the most daunting part. Our first trip went almost exactly as planned and we also had a ‘fixer’ who arranged excursions, stays and travel between islands for us. It was pretty seamless which worked well for the first trip. We booked our homestays thru Stay Raja Ampat for both trips. The 2nd trip, a lot of logistical stuff went awry including not being picked up at Wasai by our first homestay. We were helped by people at the dock who basically arranged for a fishing boat to take us to the homestay. When we got there, the owner had forgotten we were staying there and since his relatives were there, had no room (even after confirmed through Stay Raja Ampat website). No worries, though. He just brought us to nearby Friwen and another homestay was happy to take us. We also had to change itineraries on the 2nd trip because we went over the Easter Holiday and Good Friday. We already knew they won’t do much on Sunday, but forgot that on Good Friday a pre-arranged transfer from far-away Manafyun was not happening. Again, had to stay at another homestay we had not previously booked. I think if this had happened on our first trip, I would have freaked a bit. But once you get used to the fact that things run on ‘island time’ and things will work out, it’s all good. We only travel with carry-on rolling duffel bags (filled mostly with snorkel gear and very few clothes) so zipping from place to place is easy. But each time we go, we learn a bit more about what to take and what to leave behind. Anyway, just wanted to let you know how much I enjoy reading the writing of someone who feels the same way about this magical place!

  3. Yes! Yes! Yes! It was absolutely worth it. We just returned and loved all the dive sites, the remoteness, listening to the waves, and truly disconnecting for 6 blissful days! Thanks for a great and informative blog. I read it before I left and it really helped me with the lay of the islands.

    1. Hi Prisana, we appreciate your kind words and really glad that our blog was able to give you a little insight to Raja Ampat before you arrived. Thank you for sharing your experience 🙂 – Claire

  4. Hi there, thank you so much for your write up. I am currently sharing your anxieties that you once had. I’m a lone traveller from London and plan to be there next week. Have some time off work – Currently in Kerala and going to Singapore. Would you by any chance be free for a quick Whatsapp call tomorrow or Friday? It would help me immensely if I can have a chat with you.

    Thanks again for the above write up.


  5. If you plan on hopping islands do you have to go back to Waisei every time, say for example I want to stay at Kri for a few days can I get a boat from there to say Gam or to Mansuar or do I have to return to Waisei?.


    1. Hi John! No you do not have to go back to Waisai, you can arrange island hopping and snorkel trips with your homestay directly. Gam and Mansuar are in relatively close proximity to Kri so its really easy to visit more than one island per day 🙂 Hope this helps & have a great time! – Claire

  6. Did you take Malaria medication? Were the mosquitoes a threat. We are staying on a boat, not on land.
    Also…. did you get pulled by strong current while snorkeling? Or are snorkeling areas calm and fine?

    1. Hi Elle, yes mosquitos and malaria are a threat in Raja Ampat, however I would say they are less of a risk on a boat than if you were staying on land. We took malarone tablets for our initial trip, but have been back on several occasions without taking medication. We made sure to cover up at dawn and dusk and wear lots of deet to avoid being bitten. This has been a risk on our part, and one I wouldn’t necessarily recommend.

      Currents are prevalent in Raja Ampat, but their strength varies from place to place. Some snorkel spots are calm, others are more like ‘drift snorkels’ where you are pulled along the reef by the current. This is no problem as long as you have a boat to pick you up at the other end. Have you read our guide to the best snorkel spots in Raja Ampat? If not, this will give you a better idea 🙂 I also recommend wearing fins in case you do get caught in any particularly strong currents. Hope this helps and thank you for your comment – Claire.

    1. Hi Sue, thank you so much! We’ve spent a total of 8 months there in the last 2 years, and have been during October, November, December, January and February. Feel free to give us a shout if you have any more questions 🙂 – Claire

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